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Round 1 does not usually treat existing broadleaf weeds because ground and air temperatures are typically too low to get good control. Round 1 is designed to keep Crabgrass and other grassy weeds from germinating and feed the lawn. Post-emergent broadleaf weed control is usually applied in Rounds 2-5 when weeds are present and actively growing. *Additionally - Round 1 will/can include broadleaf weed control if temperatures will support good control and we see weeds. Normally there shouldn’t be many dandelions in the spring on veteran lawns, but a high percentage of new customers have a need for a treatment. Next year, new customers are veteran customers and should already have a much less weedy lawn because we do lawn care, the way it should be. By treating broadleaf bi-annual weeds like Dandelions and Thistles in the fall, we are treating at the best time of year and already investing in the future lawn. It’s the difference between chasing after weeds that are flowering and being prepared, much like a farmer planning for results.
Our systemic weed control trans-locates within the weed after water has been absorbed. It takes about two weeks to three weeks to see results, since both the weed and roots are being destroyed, but will significantly better after just a few days of die back. This is Mother Nature we are dealing with here, and some weeds are harder to kill. Clover, Creeping Charlie, and Violets, for example, may need a second or third treatment.
A preventative goes down before any damage can get a foothold for the year. Otherwise we would have to see damage before we can treat the problem. This allows the disease / insects to hurt the appearance of your lawn. Preventative applications go down before reoccurring damage appears. It’s the difference between chasing after lawn damage / spots and being prepared like a farmer planning for results.
These sometimes can be due to disease and / or insects. Lawn disease thrives due to incorrect watering and mowing practices. Although some lawns are more susceptible genetically and because of bad soil, mowing at least three inches or higher with a sharpened blade, watering correctly, aerating every year, and using preventative fungicide / insecticide and / or organic fertilizer will give your lawn the best chance for success.
If there's one thing that helps conserve water and keep a lawn looking its best without a lot of work, this is it. Mow a patch of lawn and measure the grass height WITH A RULER (don't use mower marks). During cooler times like first or last cut or two when it is a cooler time of the year, two and half to three inches is good. During the hotter months May, June, July, Aug, Sept, Raise the deck to three and half inches or higher to leave length for water storage, and to shade the crown cooling the soil. This actually slows the growth and discourages new weeds, saving you money and time.
Early morning. Watering in the early evening can help several lawn diseases. If the lawn sits damp longer than normal, fungus will thrive.
Water each zone for 45 to 60 minutes or more, 2-3 times a week. A good way to measure is to place an empty tuna can in the zone, when the can is full you have watered enough for that zone. After a weed control application, you must water the lawn.
Every year will be different due to weather, lawn’s condition and routing. Fertilizer treatments are generally every 4–8 weeks but can change with different agronomic conditions.
To get an exact gauge of mowing we would have to do it. Things like blade sharpness and height are an educated guess based off when the last cut was done and how tall the grass was when last cut. Rather than being too precise we generally group into two categories: Keep Sharp / Keep High = Looks o.k. keep it up. Looks Dull / Raise Up = Sharpen and raise the deck. Other areas are the same because lawns and plants need consistent favorable conditions, and we are merely trying to remind you of this. Our best lawns have care givers who consistently follow these seemingly repetitive directions.